Clarifying is an ideal step for starting on a clean slate and giving your curls the best chance to be shiny and bouncy. Read on for everything you need to know about clarifying curly hair!

Jump to:

• What is clarifying?
• How do I know if I need to clarify my hair?
• How often should I clarify my hair?
• What’s the difference between clarifying and chelating?
• How do I know if a shampoo is clarifying or chelating?
• Can I use apple cider vinegar to clarify my hair?
• How to choose a clarifying shampoo
• My favourite clarifying shampoos

What is clarifying?

Our hair and scalp experience buildup from a variety of sources: styling and conditioning products, dirt and dust from the environment, the minerals found in hard water, as well as our natural sebum. Clarifying means deeply shampooing your hair in a way that clears it of this buildup.

This is considered an important step in a curly routine, because lots of curly hair products contain butters, oils, and other ingredients that can build up on the hair and can affect the shine and bounce of your curls. It’s worth noting that the Curly Girl Method does not mention clarifying, so while I would definitely recommend doing it, it is a deviation from the strict CGM rules.

The Curly Girl Method isn’t for Everyone

How do I know if I need to clarify my hair?

As you get to know your curls, you might find that they are not acting the way they usually do. Perhaps they have suddenly gone more limp or dull, or your hair is looking or feeling greasy faster, or your products aren’t working the way they usually do. This is usually a sign that you need to do a deeper clean, so that you can start again on a clean slate!

Exhibit A: a time when I definitely needed to clarify because I’d used a styler that was too heavy for my hair. No joke: the second picture is the very next washday, after I’d clarified and used more lightweight stylers.

How often should I clarify my hair?

This depends on your own situation – how much product you use, how oily or itchy your scalp gets, and possibly how fine or coarse your hair is. Finer hair can experience buildup faster as it is unable to take on those heavier products.

I clarify every couple of weeks, other curlies do it once a month, and others (who live in very hard water areas) actually find they can clarify every wash day without issues. Speaking of hard water…

What’s the difference between clarifying and chelating?

Hard water is water that has a high mineral content, mostly magnesium and calcium.  A quick google should tell you if you live in a hard of soft water area. You might find in hard water areas that appliances get limescale buildup faster, it’s harder to lather up shampoo and soaps…and you get that gross film on your tea and coffee. Hard water can make both hair and skin feel dry and dull, so some shampoos also include chelating ingredients to remove this hard water buildup.

How do I know if a shampoo is clarifying or chelating?

This is a non-exhaustive list, but some clarifying ingredients include:

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

And some chelating ingredients include:

• Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
• Sodium Phytate/Phytic Acid
• Disodium EDTA
• Tetrasodium EDTA
• Pentasoidum Pentetate 

Can I use apple cider vinegar to clarify my hair?

You may have seen people extolling the virtues of apple cider vinegar to rinse away buildup and make hair smooth and shiny…but as with everything, this is not a one-size-fits-all approach. According to cosmetic chemist Dr Heleen Kibbelaar (@sciencemeetscosmetics), the low pH of apple cider vinegar is what makes our hair feel smooth by reducing the amount of negative charge in our hair (exactly the same as how conditioners work). But if you do not dilute this vinegar enough, it quickly becomes far too acidic for our hair and scalp, which can cause irritation and further damage.

What’s more, while apple cider vinegar seems to have some anti-microbial benefits, it may not lift all of the buildup from your scalp as it is not a surfactant (aka, the cleaning agents in shampoos). Some people swear by apple cider vinegar, but in terms of its cleansing power, there are plenty of shampoos at all price points that will do a better job.

How to choose a clarifying shampoo

Below are a couple of my favourites, but you don’t have to go out and buy a specific fancy shampoo to clarify your hair: you could even just go back to your old sulphate shampoo! (Don’t tell the curly police, but if I’m feeling lazy, I just use my boyfriend’s Head & Shoulders shampoo. I wouldn’t use it every washday, but once every couple of months? Works a treat!)

And a disclaimer: just because a shampoo has sulphates in it, doesn’t automatically make it stripping (just like a sulphate-free shampoo isn’t automatically more moisturising). The overall formulation of a product will determine how conditioning (or not) it is on your hair and scalp. But when it comes to shampoo, I personally don’t mind that “squeaky clean” feeling – you will get a chance to reintroduce that slip and moisture when you apply your conditioner. If you are worried that a shampoo is too harsh on your scalp, you could always follow it up with a little co-wash or your more gentle shampoo.

If you have colour-treated hair, be sure to choose a shampoo that specifically says that it is colour-safe. If you have a skin condition such as seborrheic dermatitis, you might want to discuss with a dermatologist what shampoo is best for you.

My favourite clarifying shampoos

Note: some of these are affiliate links, meaning I get a small commission if you buy through the link.

Philip Kingsley Body Building Shampoo – Get on Amazon, LookFantastic (and use code LFTFCOAST) or direct from their website

Noughty Detox Dynamo (sulphate-free + chelating) – Get on LookFantastic (and use code LFTFCOAST), Boots UK, Amazon, or direct from their website

Aldi Lacura Luscious Lengths Shampoo (+ chelating) (yes, that Aldi!)

Some I haven’t tried but come well-recommended by other curlies:

Bumble & Bumble Sunday Shampoo (sulphate-free + chelating) – get on Amazon, LookFantastic (and use code LFTFCOAST) or Boots UK

Ouai Detox Shampoo (sulphate-free + chelating) – get on LookFantastic or Amazon

Happy clarifying! ✌